Persian culture survives
On the surface, Tehran is a place where you see women swathed in black and there are ugly grimy modern buildings housing rude officials.
The Islamic system of government has deliberately erased much of what was Persian culture and it is only by looking hard that you can catch glimpses of the past.
Yes, some of the women may be covered from top-to-toe in black, but do not think that every woman who is covered up like that is submissive and docile - they wield huge power behind the scenes, often controlling the family finances.
Some officials may be staggeringly rude but at home Iranians are so courteous that it overwhelms foreigners until they get used to the ritual exchange of politesse that is rather beautiful to observe in action when done by a true professional.
The younger generation may eat pizzas and burgers and listen to rap music, but they still have a deep respect for Persian food, music, poetry and the language itself.
Of course, three years in Iran has brainwashed me.
I do believe that Iranians cook rice better than anyone else in the world, that Iranian women are the most beautiful in the world, and that the roses smell sweeter.
For all the ugliness of much of the politics here, there are still vestiges of a past beauty.
And as I leave, that is the Iran I want to treasure even though it is slowly fading.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/from_our_own_correspondent/6277172.stm